In Pictures

‘Swimming with dead bodies’: A year on, Greeks haunted by inferno

On anniversary of Greece’s worst natural disaster, Mati residents express frustration with pace of recovery.

One year after a deadly wildfire in the seaside town of Mati, near the Greek capital of Athens, residents are still struggling to get back on their feet. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Mati, Greece – Yorgos Asimakos ran into the sea in his clothes and shoes. His son, Nikos, was right beside him, and was the one who moments earlier had saved him by guiding him down a narrow flight of stairs that led to the beach.

“There was black smoke everywhere and I panicked, I didn’t know where to go,” recalls Asimakos, 62. “Nikos was to my right but I lost sight of him so I shouted, ‘Don’t leave me’; if he hadn’t returned, I’d be dead.”

Asimakos and his then-23-year-old son were fleeing a wildfire, which on July 23, 2018, engulfed Mati, a popular seaside resort east of Greece‘s capital, Athens. Driven by gale-force winds and fuelled by omnipresent pine trees, the rapidly-spreading blaze caught many locals and holidaymakers off guard. For some, the only way to safety was to run towards the sea.

“I stayed in the water for four-and-a-half hours,” Asimakos says. “A black cloud was above us and we couldn’t breathe,” he adds. “I saw female neighbours of mine naked, their clothes burned, and being in pain for hours inside the sea.”

But many had not made it that far.

Amid the frenzy to escape, panicky drivers clogged the streets leading away from the poorly planned town. Many were trapped in their cars. Others died in their homes or were overtaken by the advancing flames and smoke as they dashed to reach the sea, including some who were found huddled together, their path to the beach blocked by a cliff after making a wrong turn.

“There was chaos everywhere; people were running and cars were crashing,” says Yiannis Stampelos, whose family-owned restaurant is in one of the very few easily accessible seaside spots in Mati and became a haven for hundreds in the area.

But making it to the sea did not guarantee safety, either. People, among them many elderly, remained stranded for several hours with no help, and several drowned.

Asimakos says while in the water he could constantly hear explosions but had to turn his back to the coast due to the blazing heat. It was only hours later, after returning onshore, that the full scale of the disaster would become apparent to him.

“Fires were simmering everywhere, and the roads were full of wires, full of cars and full of bodies,” he says. “In one car, there were three little children burned to death, melted.”

Later on, he found his sister-in-law, Vicky, lying motionless on the ground near a multi-storey apartment bloc. “She wasn’t burned to death; the toxic fumes filled her insides, poor woman.”

‘Impossible to convey’

Overall, the devastating blaze a year ago caused the deaths of 102 people, the highest recorded toll from a fire in Greece’s modern history. It ravaged some 5,600 hectares of land, destroyed thousands of buildings and left dozens suffering from burns.

One year on, along with the questions about how such a tragedy occurred, residents are frustrated with the slow pace of recovery.

Locals say the clean-up operation is months behind schedule and warn that a bulky mass of burned branches and trunks collected from the area is a major fire hazard, as are the stacks of dry grass and debris that can be seen on pavements and outside properties across the town.

Affected residents also call for the fast-tracking of processes to issue licences for the repair and reconstruction of the roughly 3,000 houses that were damaged in the fire.

The Greek government at the time, led by Prime Minister Alexis Tsipras of the left-wing Syriza party, blamed unlicensed building for the high number of casualties and sacked the chiefs of the police force and fire services, amid intense criticism over its response during the tragedy.

In March, prosecutors investigating the inferno issued a 293-page report detailing the lack of coordination among the authorities which resulted in “chaos and a collapse of the system, general liabilities of the competent services, and criminal mistakes and omissions in addressing the deadly fire”.

Prosecutors also said that many lives could have been saved “if civil protection measures had been activated to alert residents” of the approaching fire, while locals slammed police for diverting vehicles at one point in the direction of the blaze amid a communications breakdown with the fire service.

“Police allowed people to go towards Rafina [to the east of Athens], which was a big mistake and that’s when the big turmoil happened,” Agathe Kedikidi, a resident, says. “People got trapped [in their cars], they couldn’t move – couldn’t even open their doors.”

A 65-year-old man has been charged with arson, suspected of starting the blaze by allegedly burning wood outside his house in an area west of Mati.

In an emotionally charged ceremony on Sunday in memory of those who perished a year ago, Mihalis Chrisohoidis, minister of civil protection for Greece’s newly elected government, said there were still “open wounds” and said a number of issues still needed to be addressed, in areas including urban planning and healthcare.

Asimakos says the memories of the disaster still haunt him.

“Those who didn’t experience the fire are lucky,” he says. “My wife lost her sister, she’s crying every day and I’m not sure if she’ll ever get over it – but she was at work and didn’t go through what our son and I did,” he adds.

“We were swimming with dead bodies at sea … it’s impossible to convey what happened.”

The devastating blaze killed 102 people, wounded dozens and destroyed thousands of buildings. It was the worst natural disaster in Greece’s modern history. — The devastating blaze killed 102 people, wounded dozens and destroyed thousands of buildings. It was the worst natural disaster in Greece's modern history. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Residents say the operation to clean up Mati after Mati is several months behind schedule and warn of various fire hazards during the summer months — Residents say the operation to clean up Mati is several months behind schedule and warn of various fire hazards during the summer months. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

People died in their houses, in their cars and on the streets while attempting to run away from the rapidly-advancing flames and smoke. For many, the only way out was to jump to the sea. — The rapidly-advancing flames and smoke killed people in their houses, their cars and on the streets as they attempted to flee the fire. For many, the only way out was to jump into the sea. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Even those who made it to the sea, among them many elderly, were not safe as they remained there for several hours trapped and in tough conditions. “The waters in Mati are full of big sharp rocks and — Even those who made it to the sea, among them many elderly, were not safe as they remained trapped in tough conditions for several hours. "The waters in Mati are full of big, sharp rocks and sea urchins. People were stressed and trying not to swim far, because it was windy, it was getting dark and the currents are strong. They called the authorities to come for help but nothing happened for hours," Agathe Kedikidi says. 'It was the Egyptian fishermen who came on boats from the nearby town of Rafina, braving the danger to help save those at sea."[Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

According to a monitoring group, about 3,000 buildings were damaged or totally destroyed in the fire. So far, there have been fewer than 900 applications to obtain the license needed for owners to pro — According to a monitoring group, about 3,000 buildings were damaged or totally destroyed in the fire. So far, there have been fewer than 900 applications to obtain the licences needed for owners to proceed to repairs, with only 354 issued. Meanwhile, there have been no licences issued - of more than 270 applications - for demolitions and reconstruction. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

There is also the problem of damaged homes that are located in forest areas, the majority of which do not have building permits. The procedures for these cases, which number to several hundred, have b — There is also a problem of damaged homes that are located in forest areas, the majority of which do not have building permits. The procedures for these cases, which number several hundred, have been frozen since there is no legislation that allows the owners of such houses to receive state assistance to repair their properties. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Built decades ago, many houses in Mati were constructed with asbestos, a carcinogenic substance that should not be touched with bare hands if burned. Residence and experts say the collection and remov — Built decades ago, many houses in Mati were constructed with asbestos, a carcinogenic substance that should not be touched with bare hands if burned. Residents and experts say the removal of asbestos residues by specialised companies has been halted due to bureaucratic issues, and called for the urgent resolution of the problem. Locals told Al Jazeera the problem also affects the area’s water system. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Locals say the clean-up operation is months behind schedule and warn that a plot of land in the area containing a bulky mass of burned branches and trunks is a time bomb for a new fire. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Following the fire, the government said it would provide 5,000 euros per property affected, along with some smaller sums to help urgent and telecommunication needs. The compensation for business owner — Following the fire, the government announced compensation of 5,000 euros ($5,600) per property affected, along with some smaller sums to help urgent and telecommunications needs. Business owners received 8,000 euros ($8,950). [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

“The damage is very big and the financial assistance that was given was, in essence, insignificant,” says Yiannis Stampelos, owner of a seaside restaurant in Mati. “Our business had to close during th — "The damage is very big and the financial assistance that was given was, in essence, insignificant," says Yiannis Stampelos, owner of a seaside restaurant in Mati. "Our business had to close during the high season and remained shut for 10 months – that was a huge blow, all the while the running expenses remained," he added. "This year, customer traffic is down 70 percent to 80 percent compared to the previous year. Many residents, nearly half of Mati, are not here either because their house was destroyed, or due to psychological reasons." [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

“They only thing they [authorities] do is to collect the rubbish, not the debris and the [burned and sewn-off] branches,” says Yorgos Asimakos. “Throughout the summer, when the temperature is 40 degre — "The only thing they [authorities] do is to collect the rubbish, not the debris and the [burned and sewn-off] branches," says Yorgos Asimakos. "Throughout the summer, when the temperature is 40 degrees Celsius, there is such a big danger of another fire – the risk is real because there are still many trees that have been cut." [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

“We don’t want anything more than the simple things that all residents want from their town,” said Marios. “When it comes to the burned branches, both local authorities and residents are responsible. — "We don't want anything more than the simple things that all residents want from their town," Marios Weinwurm says. "When it comes to the burned branches, both local authorities and residents are responsible. Citizens should not be allowed to not clean up their premises, and when they do to leave the branches on the streets." [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Mati residents also complain of regular power cuts, in a town where electricity was supplied from lines hung from wooden posts. “All the posts burned down,” says Marios. “The truth is that they were r — Mati residents also complain of regular power cuts, in a town where electricity was supplied from lines hung from wooden posts. "All the posts burned down," Weinwurm says. "The truth is that they were replaced quickly after the fire, but there are still issues. Those who live here permanently know that there could be a power cut every 15 minutes." [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

Affected residents also call for the speeding up of the processes to issue licenses for the repairing and reconstruction of the roughly 3,000 houses that were damaged in the fire. — Affected residents also call for fast-tracking processes to issue licences for the repair and reconstruction of the roughly 3,000 houses that were damaged in the fire. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]

For his part, Asimakos says the memories of the disaster still haunt him. “Those who didn’t experience the fire are lucky,” he says. “My wife lost her sister, she’s crying every day and I’m not sure — For his part, Asimakos says the memories of the disaster still haunt him. "Those who didn't experience the fire are lucky," he says. "My wife lost her sister, she's crying every day and I'm not sure if she'll ever get over it – but she was at work and didn't go through what our son and I did," added Asimakos. [Dimitris Sideridis/Al Jazeera]