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Crumbling architecture of former narco-state in Bissau

Like the country’s glacial political process, the city’s historical buildings reflect roots of colonialism.

During the more than 10-year armed struggle for independence, Guinea Bissau was supported by communist countries such as Cuba and the Soviet Union. After independence in 1974, many Guinea-Bissauan citizens went to these countries to study. The first bank in Guinea Bissau was built by a female Guinea-Bissauan architect who studied in the Soviet Union. Today the building is abandoned in the center of town, but still marked with Che Guevara graffiti. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
During the more than 10-year armed struggle for independence, Guinea Bissau was supported by communist countries such as Cuba and the Soviet Union. After independence in 1974, many Guinea-Bissauan citizens went to these countries to study. The first bank in Guinea Bissau was built by a female Guinea-Bissauan architect who studied in the Soviet Union. Today the building is abandoned in the center of town, but still marked with Che Guevara graffiti. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
By 
Ricci Shryock
28 Dec 2017
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Bissau, Guinea Bissau – For a decade after its independence in 1974, the residents and business owners in Guinea Bissau’s capital city – especially the area known as “Bissau Velho” (Old Bissau), were required by law to repaint the facades of their buildings each December.

But then the civil war of the 1980s tore through the country, and though the law remained on the books, the practice of painting the colonial-era buildings at the end of every year faded, along with the colourful paint on the buildings lining the former Portuguese colony’s roads on the seaside city.

With the passing of time, governments changed hands, but most of Bissau Velho’s roads are still lined with buildings that were there when the Portuguese colonial powers imposed their will.

The buildings speak of the country’s past – and the political tug-of-war standstill of its present.

“The building edifices are the history of each country,” says Guinea-Bissauan architect Djamila Gomes, as she drives around the streets of Bissau’s downtown area, reeling off the history of many of the city’s oldest buildings.

Bissau was named the capital by the Portuguese in 1939, and much of the city’s structures were built in the early forties.

Today, especially in Bissau Velho, many of these structures are abandoned and crumbling, much to the dismay of Gomes.

“It’s not just about things you learn in school – the history must be visible and something everything can see,” she says.

At one end of the downtown area sits the presidential palace, where today’s leaders are mostly from the ruling PAIGC party, which fought for independence and was founded by Amilcar Cabral. They are still ruling the country more than 40 years later, but the president and parliament are locked in a political battle over who should be named prime minister.

The parliament has not met in over two years, but the country’s workers grind on – selling cashews (the country’s number one export), oysters and fish in the shadows of historical buildings.

The road that leads from the presidency to the port is named after independence hero Cabral, and along this street buzzing with Bissau’s signature blue taxis, Joao Arlene da Costa is busy restoring his colonial-era home to its original state.

Before independence, Da Costa worked at Casa Gouveia, a Portuguese-owned export business where he was paid less than his Portuguese counterparts.

It was a strike by Guinea-Bissauan dock workers against the company that was one of the sparks that ignited the fight for independence. After the more than decade-long war was won by Guinea Bissau, the country nationalised the Portuguese company and gave some of the workers homes that had belonged to the Portuguese.

That is how Da Costa received his home on Amilcar Cabral Avenue. Now he wants to restore it to its former glory, keeping intact its painful history.

“For me, the independence was everything – to have an independent Guinea Bissau. Whatever arrives afterwards… is something else. But for me independence was everything,” he says.

Sometimes it feels as if the neglected buildings along the roads echo the sentiments of this older generation, but does the next generation long for something more? In 2015, international donors pledged more than one billion euros in aid to help Guinea Bissau realise a ten-year development plan.

But that money has been stalled since August of that year when President Mario Jose Vaz removed then-Prime Minister Domingos Simoes Pereira. At the time of his ouster, Pereira’s government had launched a plan to restore the architecture of three important historical cities. Those plans were abandoned once he was fired.

Amid Guinea Bissau’s peaceful political uncertainty, the facades of its historical buildings are visibly neglected, but they – along with the country – still stand and declare their own style of beauty. 

Many of the residences built in the capital, Bissau, during Portuguese rule are abandoned in the downtown area. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Many of the residences built in the capital, Bissau, during Portuguese rule are abandoned in the downtown area. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
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One of the oldest fortresses in West Africa, Fortaleza de Sao Jose da Amura (or Fortress of Amura), was originally built in the late 17th century but has been remodelled many times. Most recently, the government of Guinea Bissau opened a museum in the fortress to honour the fight for independence. It also still serves as a military base of operations. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
One of the oldest fortresses in West Africa, Fortaleza de Sao Jose da Amura (or Fortress of Amura), was originally built in the late 17th century but has been remodelled many times. Most recently, the government of Guinea Bissau opened a museum in the fortress to honour the fight for independence. It also still serves as a military base of operations. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
The heart of 'Bissau Velho' or Old Bissau, is mostly abandoned buildings, though some businesses and pharmacies operate out of the colonial era buildings. Bissau was named the capital in 1939 by the then colonial power, Portugal. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
The heart of 'Bissau Velho' or Old Bissau, is mostly abandoned buildings, though some businesses and pharmacies operate out of the colonial era buildings. Bissau was named the capital in 1939 by the then colonial power, Portugal. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
People gather outside a government building on Amilcar Cabral Avenue in Bissau. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
People gather outside a government building on Amilcar Cabral Avenue in Bissau. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
The Hand of Timba is a monument honoring those who died in the Pidjiguiti massacre. The massacre took place in 1959 when Bissau dockworkers went on strike for better wages. At the time, Portugal was the colonial power,  and Portugese security forces suppressed the strikers and killed more than 50 people. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
The Hand of Timba is a monument honoring those who died in the Pidjiguiti massacre. The massacre took place in 1959 when Bissau dockworkers went on strike for better wages. At the time, Portugal was the colonial power, and Portugese security forces suppressed the strikers and killed more than 50 people. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Workers renovate a building , which will be the Ministry of Commerce, in Old Bissau. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Workers renovate a building , which will be the Ministry of Commerce, in Old Bissau. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
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Women attend a wedding at Bissau's main Catholic church, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Candelaria. It was built by the Portuguese, and also serves as a lighthouse and sits along Amilcar Cabral Avenue. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Women attend a wedding at Bissau's main Catholic church, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Candelaria. It was built by the Portuguese, and also serves as a lighthouse and sits along Amilcar Cabral Avenue. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Joao Arlene da Costa (pictured here with architect Djamila Gomes) is restoring his colonial era home to its original state. He wants to see it in its former glory [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Joao Arlene da Costa (pictured here with architect Djamila Gomes) is restoring his colonial era home to its original state. He wants to see it in its former glory [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Women sell oysters in downtown Bissau next to an abandoned building. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Women sell oysters in downtown Bissau next to an abandoned building. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
One of the first schools in Bissau, built in the early 1920s, this building still functions as a school. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
One of the first schools in Bissau, built in the early 1920s, this building still functions as a school. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Djamila Gomes is an architect from Guinea Bissau. She is currently working with a firm to restore the Grand Hotel in Old Bissau. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]
Djamila Gomes is an architect from Guinea Bissau. She is currently working with a firm to restore the Grand Hotel in Old Bissau. [Ricci Shryock/ Al Jazeera]

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