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In Pictures: Life returns to Mogadishu

Mogadishu is making a comeback despite years of violence, corruption, greed and death.

Mogadishu(***)s seaport is representative of much of the embattled city, slowly coming back to life despite security fears.
Mogadishu(***)s seaport is representative of much of the embattled city, slowly coming back to life despite security fears.
By 
James Brownsell
23 Jul 2014
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Mogadishu, Somalia – This is a city unlike any other. A key Indian Ocean port for centuries, when Persian and Arab merchants traded with local pastoralists, Mogadishu was the centre of Italian colonialist expansion in east Africa through the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Its people have known generations of violence, visited upon them both by foreign invaders and local clans alike. During the 1980s, armed resistance grew in opposition to the regime of Siad Barre, leading to the ousting of the military dictator in 1991.

In the decades that followed, Mogadishu became a lawless power vacuum, in which various political and religious factions battled for supremacy in a devastatingly bloody civil war.

Today, Somalia’s capital is largely under the control of the nation’s government and its allied African Union troops. Despite al-Shabab’s proven ability to attack Mogadishu, a sense of relative normality is fighting to establish itself between the buildings pockmarked with small-arms fire and the rubble of state institutions.

The denizens of Mogadishu have had everything they once had torn from them by years of violence, corruption, greed, and death. But they are clawing their city back with their bare hands.

Everywhere in this devastated city, there is life amid the carnage. At every turn, residents are rebuilding homes, opening shops, and reclaiming their futures from the ruins of history.

Mogadishu(***)s bustling fish market is a thriving example of how industry is recovering in the war torn capital.
Mogadishu(***)s bustling fish market is a thriving example of how industry is recovering in the war torn capital.
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Not a single building in the city stands without the scars of war.
Not a single building in the city stands without the scars of war.
Much of the country was an Italian colony in the 19th century, up to World War II, and the era(***)s Mediterranean architecture helped the city earn its post-independence nickname, (***)The White Pearl of the Indian Ocean(***).
Much of the country was an Italian colony in the 19th century, up to World War II, and the era(***)s Mediterranean architecture helped the city earn its post-independence nickname, (***)The White Pearl of the Indian Ocean(***).
The civil war that has raged in Somalia since armed opposition to the regime of military dictator Siad Barre grew in the 1980s, has taken its toll on the country, its infrastructure, and its residents. Not much remains of the former parliament building, here in the centre of the capital.
The civil war that has raged in Somalia since armed opposition to the regime of military dictator Siad Barre grew in the 1980s, has taken its toll on the country, its infrastructure, and its residents. Not much remains of the former parliament building, here in the centre of the capital.
The decades of civil war have left everyone under the age of around 35 with zero experience of functioning state institutions, be they an effective police force, schools, hospitals or even refuse collection. The lack of institutional capacity poses a major obstacle to rebuilding this fragmented society.
The decades of civil war have left everyone under the age of around 35 with zero experience of functioning state institutions, be they an effective police force, schools, hospitals or even refuse collection. The lack of institutional capacity poses a major obstacle to rebuilding this fragmented society.
While main roads tend to be packed with a mix of donkeys, mopeds, construction trucks, and SUVs rammed full of heavily armed men, many people continue to avoid back streets, fearful of both security threats and poor road surfaces.
While main roads tend to be packed with a mix of donkeys, mopeds, construction trucks, and SUVs rammed full of heavily armed men, many people continue to avoid back streets, fearful of both security threats and poor road surfaces.
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People all over the globe love football, and young Somalis on Mogadishu(***)s Lido beach are no different.
People all over the globe love football, and young Somalis on Mogadishu(***)s Lido beach are no different.
All along the beachfront, vendors sell freshly harvested fruit, mostly locally grown, but also items that have been brought into the country via the nearby seaport.
All along the beachfront, vendors sell freshly harvested fruit, mostly locally grown, but also items that have been brought into the country via the nearby seaport.
No more the haven of pirates and al-Shabab fighters, no fewer than two restaurants have now opened to the public on Mogadishu(***)s beachfront.
No more the haven of pirates and al-Shabab fighters, no fewer than two restaurants have now opened to the public on Mogadishu(***)s beachfront.
While the beach in Mogadishu, like many around the world, is popular with young men and children, women also bathe in the clear waters of the Indian Ocean, albeit fully clothed in traditional abaya gowns.
While the beach in Mogadishu, like many around the world, is popular with young men and children, women also bathe in the clear waters of the Indian Ocean, albeit fully clothed in traditional abaya gowns.
Makeshift roadblocks dot the city(***)s streets, but they don(***)t always do much to restrict the flow of determined drivers.
Makeshift roadblocks dot the city(***)s streets, but they don(***)t always do much to restrict the flow of determined drivers.
Shopping areas, for years the target of attacks from al-Shabab, or any of the numerous armed groups fighting in the civil war, are once again full of people.
Shopping areas, for years the target of attacks from al-Shabab, or any of the numerous armed groups fighting in the civil war, are once again full of people.
Hamarweyne market in central Mogadishu is a vibrant collection of brightly painted buildings, with dozens of traders plying wares from fresh fish and meat to plastic toys and football shirts.
Hamarweyne market in central Mogadishu is a vibrant collection of brightly painted buildings, with dozens of traders plying wares from fresh fish and meat to plastic toys and football shirts.
Traders at Hamarweyne market have taken advantage of the relative calm in Mogadishu to look forward to a brighter and more prosperous future.
Traders at Hamarweyne market have taken advantage of the relative calm in Mogadishu to look forward to a brighter and more prosperous future.

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