In Pictures

Iraq’s shoemakers revive their ancient craft

Mosul’s shoemakers are restoring an ancient craft, creating jobs and hope after years of conflict.

A shoemaker in Mosul puts the finishing touches on a leather shoe before it reaches the showroom. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — A shoemaker in Mosul puts the finishing touches on a leather shoe before it reaches the showroom. [Aram Hakim/International Organization for Migration]

By Aram Hakim

In the narrow alleys of Old Mosul, once the proud heart of Iraq’s shoemaking industry, the workshops are coming alive again.

After years of conflict and destruction, artisans like 58-year-old Saad Abdul Aal are reviving a tradition that dates back more than 1,000 years.

Shoemaking in Iraq, known as al-qandarjiya, flourished during the Abbasid Caliphate, when Baghdad was a global hub of trade and culture.

Generations of families devoted their lives to transforming rawhide into durable footwear, their skills handed down from master to apprentice.

Before the war, the capital city of Baghdad had more than 250 factories, while Mosul boasted over 50. Iraqi-made shoes were prized for their elegance and resilience – a symbol of national pride.

“Our work began more than 40 years ago,” says Abdul Aal, his hands quick and steady as he trims a piece of leather. “I learned the profession, fell in love with it, and never left it.”

That proud tradition nearly disappeared in 2014, when ISIL (ISIS) seized Mosul. Workshops and factories were bombed, looted, or abandoned.

Abdul Aal lost everything – his equipment, his shop, his workers. “Bombings, destruction,” he recalls. “There was no money even to consider starting again.”

After returning to Mosul, Saad found his former workplace completely destroyed. This photo was taken during IOM’s first visit in 2023. Photo: IOM — After returning to Mosul, Abdul Aal found his workshop destroyed [File: International Organization for Migration]

By the end of the war, Mosul’s 50 factories had dwindled to fewer than 10. Thousands of shoemakers were left unemployed, their skills at risk of vanishing.

The turning point came with the International Organization for Migration’s (IOM’s) Enterprise Development Fund-Tameer, which provided grants and training to displaced entrepreneurs and returnees.

For Abdul Aal, this was an opportunity to buy sewing and pressing machines, reopen his workshop, and hire staff.

“It’s not easy, but little by little we are moving forward,” he says.

Today, Abdul Aal produces about four pairs of shoes a day – fewer than before, but enough to keep his business alive. Competition from cheap imports is fierce, but he insists Iraqi craftsmanship still has an edge.

“Our shoes are genuine leather; they last. Imported shoes may appear visually appealing, but they lack quality.

“In contrast, the shoes produced in my factory are visually similar to imported shoes but offer superior quality.

“That is what makes us proud.”

Saad’s hands remain quick and precise after more than four decades of shoemaking. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Saad Abdul Aal’s hands remain quick and precise after more than four decades of shoemaking. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

“Through the programme, I was able to buy new machines and start again,” Saad explains. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — By the end of the war, Mosul’s 50 shoe factories had dwindled to fewer than 10 , with thousands of shoemakers left unemployed and their skills at risk of vanishing. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

“When I returned in 2019, I had nothing,” Ahmed recalls. “Saad welcomed me back.” Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Competition from cheap imports is fierce, but Abdul Aal insists Iraqi craftsmanship still has an edge. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

Each pair of shoes takes hours of careful work – cutting, stitching, molding, and polishing. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Each pair of shoes takes hours of careful work – cutting, stitching, moulding, and polishing. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

Each pair of shoes reflects hours of careful work in Saad’s Mosul workshop. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Each pair of shoes reflects hours of careful work in Abdul Aal’s Mosul workshop. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

In Mosul, artisans cut and glue leather by hand before stitching shoes together. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Artisans cut and glue leather by hand before stitching shoes together. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

Worker Ahmed Al-Haj Ghanem carefully cuts leather – a skill he has perfected over a decade. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Worker Ahmed al-Haj Ghanem carefully cuts leather – a skill he has perfected over a decade. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

“Our work started more than 40 years ago,” Saad says. “I’ve stayed with it ever since.” Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — “Our work started more than 40 years ago,” Abdul Aal says. “I’ve stayed with it ever since.” [Aram Hakim/IOM]

Saad Leather Shoe Factory is among the main suppliers of Iraqi-made shoes to Mosul and the northern province. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Saad Leather Shoe Factory is among the main suppliers of Iraqi-made shoes to Mosul and the northern province. [Aram Hakim/IOM]

Saad performs a final quality check on a leather shoe before it reaches the market. Photo: IOM 2025/Aram Hakim — Abdul Aal performs a final quality check on a leather shoe before it reaches the market. [Aram Hakim/IOM]