The last nomads of Nepal

In the dense forests of Girighat in Surkhet district, makeshift tents serve as the temporary shelter for Nepal’s last nomadic tribe, the Raute.

As urbanisation sweeps across the country, this small, isolated community clings to its ancient traditions. Yet, their numbers are dwindling rapidly, placing their unique way of life in jeopardy.

For generations, the Raute have followed a seasonal migration pattern, descending to the lowlands in winter and retreating to the hills during the summer.

Unlike other Indigenous groups, they steadfastly reject agriculture, permanent settlements, and formal education. Their subsistence revolves around hunting monkeys, gathering wild tubers, and bartering handmade wooden goods for essentials like rice, tools, and clothing.

The Nepalese government has officially recognised the Raute as an endangered Indigenous group. According to Nepal’s 2021 National Census, their population was recorded at 566.

However, the Social Service Centre (SOSEC) Nepal, an organisation working closely with the community, reports that their number has plummeted.

“Over the past six years, 32 children have been born, but 42 individuals, including newborns, have died,” said Lal Bahadur Khatri, a SOSEC teacher working with the Raute community. “This means their population is declining, and now only 137 individuals remain.”

Women hold a central role in the Raute community, managing daily tasks such as cooking, fetching water, and gathering food. However, they have little say in decisions related to healthcare and education.

“Moving from one place to another is very hard because a new place means more work,” said Gajali Sahi, a 22-year-old Raute woman.

“It is the women’s job to prepare the new settlement and build new houses. Additionally, fetching water and cooking meals are also women’s responsibilities. However, relocating to a new place is the hardest part. Sometimes, I feel that I would have been happier if I were born outside the Raute community, in the outside world. Being a Raute woman is very difficult — we have to carry heavy loads all day. It is truly hard.”

“Getting an education would be good for our community, but we are not allowed to study,” Gajali added. “The older generation does not permit us, even though I and other children in the community want to learn. Deepak, Nabin, and our group of younger people want to go to school because we do not feel happy here. We struggle to find warm clothes in the winter.”

Khatri explained that he and others have begun providing basic education in secret.

“Although parents do not allow their children to study, the children are very eager to learn,” he said. “So, we have been secretly teaching them how to write their names and practise daily hygiene without the elders knowing.”

To support the Raute’s food and healthcare needs, the Nepalese government provides a monthly social security allowance of 4,000 Nepalese rupees ($29.5) per person.

However, many Raute elders remain resistant to any form of change.

“Raute children don’t go to school. Raute children are used to eating kandmool [wild roots], and frogs,” said Surya Narayan Sahi, a 49-year-old Raute leader. “The Nepal government has already been asking us to send our children to school.”

He remains unwavering in his commitment to preserving the Raute way of life.

“If the Rautes live in one place, we will vanish, which will lead to unrest. There will be no existence of the Rautes,” he said. “Similarly, agriculture will finish our existence.”

Gajali, however, believes change is inevitable, but it will take time.

“I think change will take time — perhaps after the older generation passes away,” she said. “But for now, I don’t know how long it will take. If I were the leader of the community, I would send all the children to school. Unfortunately, I am not.”