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Gallery|Football

Soweto spectacle: Fans and football heroes in South Africa

Fifty years of intense sporting rivalry and fan devotion have followed local teams Orlando Pirates and Kaizer Chiefs.

A view of FNB Stadium ( First National Bank) South Africa , which normaly hosts Soweto Derby. It’s a 90,000 seater stadium which also hosted the finals to 2010 world Cup and thus is viewed in high reg
A view of Johannesburg's FNB Stadium, which normally hosts the Soweto Derby. The 90,000-seat venue also hosted the final in the 2010 FIFA World Cup. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
By Antony Kaminju
Published On 13 Mar 202013 Mar 2020
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Soweto, South Africa – “I’m going to the cathedral,” says football fan Kenneth Metiba, whose fan name is “Long John Silver” – adopted as a nod to the fictional pirate in Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel, Treasure Island. “I’m the king of the Pirates,” he adds proudly, referring to the Orlando Pirates, a giant among South African football clubs for more than 80 years.

It was the last day of February at the near-packed 90,000 seater FNB Stadium nestled between downtown Johannesburg and Soweto – and the 50th anniversary of the iconic spectacle known as the Soweto Derby. 

The tournament pits the Orlando Pirates – fondly called the Buccaneers – against their main rival Kaizer Chiefs, or “Amakhosi” (Zulu for lords or chiefs). Since the first game between the two teams in 1970, they have gone head-to-head more than 168 times.

Long John Silver, now in his 60s, is one of the Derby’s most die-hard fans. He collects any and all types of memorabilia associated with pirates. On the day of the Derby, he sports his trademark samurai sword and a toy pistol strapped onto his waist. He could easily pass for an extra from the movie Pirates of the Caribbean.

For him, the Derby is a cathedral whose revered status and devoted patrons put it in league with some of the fiercest football rivalries in the world.

The theatrics on display in the stands of a Pirates vs Chiefs game are no less spectacular than those in a real cathedral.

The fans – people of different ages and backgrounds – are a sea of colourful enthusiasm and zeal. Amakhosi supporters wear gold and black and often flash a two-finger peace sign (they see themselves as the epitome of peace and love).

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Meanwhile, Pirates fans wear their trademark black and white and adopt a crossed-hands signal as a hallmark of sea pirates.  

Every once in a while, there is a thunderous cacophony from the crowds in the stands. There are dozens of songs in support of both teams, all seemingly well-rehearsed and choreographed – performed in unison so many times that the rhythms now come naturally. 

But what stands out most are the unique ways of dressing and the paraphernalia among the ecstatic crowd.

Some Pirates fans hold watermelons, one has a huge loaf of bread; this is meant to send a strong message to Chiefs fans that they will be “eaten up”. Some fans wear preachers’ gowns and carry Bibles, which they sometimes read from when their favourite player misses a goal.

Some male Pirates fans wear skirts and bras, channelling the strength of a woman and signifying that the Buccaneers are the “mother” of all clubs. Just behind the Chiefs goalkeeper, other fans burn incense sticks – locally called “impepho” – used by South African traditional healers to communicate with the deceased or connect the living with their ancestors.

From start to finish, the spectacles and rituals come out to play until the final whistle ends the game – on this occasion handing Kaizer Chiefs a 1-0 victory over Orlando Pirates.

Long John Silver is such a devout supporter of the Pirates that when they lose a match, he is distraught and does not eat for the rest of the day. His weekly plans are determined by the Professional Soccer League’s match schedule: When his team plays, he says he cannot miss the game. Like other supporters, he frequently travels to away games and follows the team wherever they play – an expensive venture for many.

The first Soweto Derby took place in 1970, soon after the Kaiser Chiefs formed. The team was founded by Kaizer Motaung, who at the time played for the Pirates. But after some of his colleagues were expelled from the team, he left and together they formed the Kaizer Chiefs.

The Orlando Pirates has an older history, dating back to 1937. It was formed by the coming together of black players from Soweto who were not allowed to play for white clubs during apartheid.

On game days, multitudes of people wait by the stadium gates, desperate for tickets that are often sold out. Traffic moves at a snail’s pace and there is a heavy police presence, assisted by private security, a reminder of past stampedes where people have been injured. 

The Derby remains a marquee event on the South African sporting calendar. And, for the fans – many of whom see themselves as the 12th player on the team – no other event can match it.

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Holding a. doll is a Salmon a Kaizer chiefs fan at FNB stadium. He believes the doll represents love and peace , the clubs slogans. Cross dressing is big subculture especially amongst Orlando Pirates
Salmon, a Kaizer Chiefs fan, holds a doll outside the stadium. He believes the doll represents "love and peace" - the club's slogans. Cross-dressing is big among supporters, especially Orlando Pirates fans, some of whom argue that dressing like a woman channels the power of female fertility and connection to the creation of life. Many of their fans see the Pirates as the "mother" of football teams. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
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A crowd of soccer enthusiasts making their way to the FNB Stadium for soweto derby , 29 February 2020. The 90,000 seater stadium was full to capacity.Photo Antony Kaminju
Football enthusiasts make their way to the FNB Stadium for the 50th anniversary of the Soweto Derby. The 90,000 seater stadium was filled to capacity for the game on February 29, 2020. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Orlando Pirates fan gestures to the police as he gets to the stadium. Masks are used largely on this day to send coded messages to the opposing team. Photo Antony Kaminju
An Orlando Pirates fan gestures to the police as he arrives at the stadium. Masks are worn by many on Derby days to send coded messages to the opposing team. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Kenneth Metiba who prefers to be called as ‘Long John Silver’ , a die hard fan of Orlando Pirates Now in his 60’s he has been an Orlando Pirates supporter since he was a teenager. He literally lives
Kenneth Metiba - who prefers to be called "Long John Silver" - is a die-hard fan of the Orlando Pirates. Now in his 60s, he has been a Pirates supporter since he was a teenager. He immerses himself in pirate regalia - dressing as one, and collecting paraphernalia associated with pirates to match the ideals of his favorite club, the Buccaneers. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Women are also at the forefront of fandom when it comes to the derby claiming their rightful place in the stands. This years Soweto was a unique day as it marked the 50th anniversary of this iconic sp
Female fans of the Kaizer Chiefs plea for a good game as they cheer on their team. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Busisiwe and her 4 year old son Awethu at FNB stadium. She supports Kaizer chiefs but her son and husband support Orlando Pirates. Sje says she does not mind and that during the game although seated
Busisiwe and her four-year-old son Awethu are on opposing sides. She supports Kaizer Chiefs but her son has followed his father in supporting the Orlando Pirates. It is common for Derby fans who are family members to support different teams. Busisiwe says she does not mind the friendly rivalry, and that during the game, although they are seated together, they each side with their favourite teams. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
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Soccer fans of Orlando Pirates eat from a water melon as a symbol of how they will ‘ eat up’ Kaizer cheifs by scoring many goals against them. .Photo Antony kAMINJU
Orlando Pirates fans eat a watermelon as a way of symbolising that they will "eat up" the Kaizer Chiefs by scoring more goals against them. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Kaizer chiefs fans react to missed chance of scoring by one of the clubs strikers. He also has cordless phone gadget as his colleague on his right gestures as if to call the coach to make changes.Phot
Kaizer Chiefs fans react after one of the club's strikers fails to score a goal. One supporter carries a phone, while his friend gestures beside him, as if they are "calling" the coach to tell him to make a change. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Kaizer chiefs owmen fans react to mised chance by one of the players.Women are also at the forefront of fandom when it comes to the derby claiming their rightful place in the stands. This years Soweto
Kaizer Chiefs fans react to a missed opportunity to score. Some supporters dress elaborately, while others take a simpler approach. But all proudly display their team's colours - black and gold for the Chiefs, and black and white for the Pirates. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Nkosana fan of Kaizer chiefs before lick of Soweto derby at FNB Stadium South Africa. Beads and Masks are used largely on this day to sometimes to send coded messages to the opposing team. Photo Ant
Nkosana, a fan of the Kaizer Chiefs, wears a clown-like mask to the Soweto Derby. Beads and masks - like other props - are worn to mock and send messages to fans from the other team. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Kaizer chiefs fans Bolelang Gape who normally has a body sign reading ‘ hit them hard’ referring to the defeat he foresees Orlando Pirates suffering in the hands of Kaizer chiefs at FNB stadium South
Kaizer Chiefs fan Bolelang Gape has painted a message for his team on his body: "Hit them hard", referring to the defeat he foresees Orlando Pirates suffering at the hands of his team. Signage and body painting are other ways opposing fans mock and goad each other. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
A Kaizer chiefs at soweto Derby , South africa , 29 Feb 2020. Masks are used largely on this day to send coded messages to the opposing team.Photo Antony Kaminju
Creative masks and embellished hats are worn by Orlando Pirates fans to display their allegiance and try to intimidate the opposing team. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
A kaizer chiefs fan Nelly Kubai celebrates after her team Kaizer scoered the 1-0 against rivals Orlando Pirates. She has ben a Chiefs supporter for over 20 years and on tis days she had travelled fro
Kaizer Chiefs fan Nelly Kubai celebrates after her team scores the winning goal against their rivals the Orlando Pirates. She has been a Chiefs supporter for more than 20 years and on the day of the Derby she travelled from Pretoria, 30km from Johannesburg, to support her team. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]
Kaizer chiefs and Orlando Pirates fans at FNB stadium South Africa, 29 February 2020. This years derby was a unique day as it marked the 50th anniversary of this iconic spectacle. Fans come around the
The stands - usually packed to capacity - are awash with gold, black and white - representing the colours of both the Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates. Fans come from around South Africa, and some even come from neighbouring countries, to attend matches when the two teams meet. [Antony Kaminju/Al Jazeera]


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