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Korean Demilitarized Zone: Life at the border

Scenes from one of the most militarised zones in the world.

Life at the border that divides the two Koreas
South Korean soldiers stand guard outside the conference room on the southern side of JSA. No North Korean soldier was present on the other side on this particular day. The raised cement slab between the two blue rooms mark the territorial divide between the two Koreas, the Military Demarcation Line (MDL). [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
By Faras Ghani
Published On 11 Feb 2018

Joint Security Area, South Korea – A deafening silence greets visitors as they step out of the Freedom House after a briefing on the history of the Koreas and the war.

A few steps away from the Military Demarcation Line that divides the two Koreas, the tension cuts through the air.

Not far, on the northern side of the Joint Security Area (JSA), the truce agreement was signed between North Korea and the United Nations Command in 1953, signalling the end of the Korean War.

Suddenly, the silence in one of the most militarised zones in the world gives way to infamous propaganda music.

Watchful South Korean soldiers wear dark sunglasses and cameras from the South and the North add to the palpable unease.

Inside the conference room – half of which is on North Korea’s side of the MDL – a soldier stands guard by the door that leads to North Korea. The taekwondo pose and dark shades form a military proced
Inside the conference room – half of which is on North Korea’s side of the MDL – a soldier stands guard by the door that leads to North Korea. The taekwondo pose and dark shades form a military procedure to stand off any intimidation from North Korean soldiers. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
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Inside the Freedom House on the South Korean side is a museum that offers visitors a glimpse into the history of the Koreas, the conflict and the DMZ. There is also a live feed of the Panmungak, the b
Inside the Freedom House on the South Korean side is a museum that offers visitors a glimpse into the history of the Koreas, the conflict and the DMZ. There is also a live feed of the Panmungak, the building opposite the Freedom House, inside the museum as well as video of a North Korean soldier's daring defection to the South late last year. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Away from the JSA, but still in the DMZ, are four tunnels that were allegedly dug up by North Korea to launch a surprise invasion on the South. All four stretch across the DMZ with one of them just 32
Away from the JSA, but still in the DMZ, are four tunnels that were allegedly dug up by North Korea to launch a surprise invasion on the South. All four stretch across the DMZ with one of them just 32km from Seoul. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
The Third Infiltration Tunnel, now a tourist spot, is 240m below the surface. South Korea has installed three blockades in the tunnel, the last one just 170m from the border, to block any plans North
The Third Infiltration Tunnel, now a tourist spot, is 240m below the surface. South Korea has installed three blockades in the tunnel, the last one just 170m from the border, to block any plans North may have of infiltration. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
The path to the Third Infiltration Tunnel is a steep slope of around 11 degrees. Authorities have forbidden photography inside the tunnel and all visitors are required to wear helmets because the tunn
The path to the Third Infiltration Tunnel is a steep slope of around 11 degrees. Authorities have forbidden photography inside the tunnel and all visitors are required to wear helmets because the tunnels are low and have pointed rocks. South Korean authorities have marked areas inside the tunnel where dynamite was allegedly used to widen the pathway. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Dorasan Station is the last train stop in South Korea and is used as a link to the North. It is located around 56km from Seoul Station in the country’s capital and around 205km from North Korea’s Pyon
Dorasan Station is the last train stop in South Korea and is used as a link to the North. It is located around 56km from Seoul Station in the country's capital and around 205km from North Korea's Pyongyang. The station currently also serves as the last stop for trains from Seoul. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
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The platform can be accessed after paying an additional W1,000 ($0.92) but gives a deserted look, especially looking into the North. While standing on the platform, the propaganda played on huge speak
The platform can be accessed after paying an additional W1,000 ($0.92) but gives a deserted look, especially gazing into the North. While standing on the platform, the propaganda played on huge speakers from North Korea is clearly audible. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Dorasan Station is located on the Gyeongui Line, which once connected South and the North, and runs across the MDL that divides the two Koreas. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Dorasan Station is located on the Gyeongui Line, which once connected South and the North, and runs across the MDL that divides the two Koreas. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
The Korean Transit Point, in a similar fashion to Dorasan Station, gives a deserted look. However, this was where more than 200 North Korean cheerleaders crossed into South Korea from for the 2018 Win
The Korean Transit Point, in a similar fashion to Dorasan Station, looks deserted. However, this was where more than 200 North Korean cheerleaders crossed into South Korea from for the 2018 Winter Olympics. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Dorasan Observatory, situated on a hill in the DMZ, offers a closer look into North Korea. From the binoculars provided, tourists can get a glimpse into what life is like in the North and also monitor
Dorasan Observatory, situated on a hill in the DMZ, offers a closer view into North Korea. From the binoculars provided, tourists get a glimpse into what life is like in the North and also monitor North Korean soldiers station at checkposts. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
The Observatory offers view into North Korea, including the Propoganda Village as well as the 160m high flagpole that North erected. The use of speakers blaring out praise of Kim Jong-un and encouragi
The Observatory offers a view into North Korea, including the Propaganda Village as well as the 160m high flagpole that North erected. The use of speakers blaring out praise of Kim Jong-un and encouraging South Koreans to defect into the North is audible from the Observatory. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]