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Discovering the spirit of Ramadan in Morocco

From iftar meals out of trunks to tea with Bedouins, the hospitality that embodies Ramadan is evident almost everywhere.

It is just after Fajr, the dawn prayer, which signals the beginning of fasting hours. The souq of Marrakech is deserted. Having finished their pre-dawn meal, or 'sahur', families at home read the dua prayer to affirm their intention not to break fast until after dusk. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
It is just after Fajr, the dawn prayer, which signals the beginning of fasting hours. The souq of Marrakech is deserted. Having finished their pre-dawn meal, or 'sahur', families at home read the dua prayer to affirm their intention not to break fast until after dusk. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
By 
Venetia Menzies
22 Jun 2017

Morocco – With long, hot afternoons spent awaiting nighttime festivities, and the rhythm of the day ceremoniously thrown upside down, it is unmistakably Ramadan.

The Muslim holy month, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, moves 11 days earlier each year due to the disparity between lunar and Gregorian calendars, causing it to shift throughout the year as decades pass. This year, the holy month straddled the months of May and July. 

During Ramadan, Muslims must observe “sawm”, which entails fasting from dawn until dusk, abstaining from food, liquids, smoking or engaging in sexual relations. It is a time for prayer, reflection, atonement and charity – when rewards for good deeds are multiplied.

In Morocco, the true spirit of Ramadan could not be clearer.

On a sweltering day in Marrakech, Rahma, an engineering student, said appreciation is at the heart of Ramadan.

“God asks us to fast so we can feel the importance of what we take for granted, to feel the hunger of the poor and encourage us to live with gratitude and empathy.”

From the taxi drivers who shared iftar from the boot of their car, to the Amazigh Bedouins who prepared mint tea on an open fire, one enjoys the hospitality that epitomises Ramadan, and which is fundamental to Islam, all 13 months of the year.

Ramadan comes from the Arabic word ‘ramida’, meaning 'to be burnt, scorched'. This indicates it was originally a summer month, but the disparity between lunar and Gregorian calendars moves Ramadan eleven days earlier each year, causing it to shift throughout the year as decades pass. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Ramadan comes from the Arabic word ‘ramida’, meaning 'to be burnt, scorched'. This indicates it was originally a summer month, but the disparity between lunar and Gregorian calendars moves Ramadan eleven days earlier each year, causing it to shift throughout the year as decades pass. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
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Temperatures in Fez exceed 40C in June, but it does not stop work at the infamous leather tanneries. Private companies are not obliged to reflect shortened public sector working hours. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Temperatures in Fez exceed 40C in June, but it does not stop work at the infamous leather tanneries. Private companies are not obliged to reflect shortened public sector working hours. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Ibrahim, a man of indigenous Amazigh descent, hides from the midday sun. After decades of fasting, he tells me it is his 'favourite month of the year', where he remembers to not take for granted the 'gift of life Allah has given him each day'. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Ibrahim, a man of indigenous Amazigh descent, hides from the midday sun. After decades of fasting, he tells me it is his 'favourite month of the year', where he remembers to not take for granted the 'gift of life Allah has given him each day'. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
In Fez's Madrasa Bou Inani, a man performs ablutions, or 'wudu', in preparation for the noon prayer, Dhuhr. Prayer five times a day is obligatory all year round, and in Ramadan there are additional prayers, such as the Tarawih in the evening. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
In Fez's Madrasa Bou Inani, a man performs ablutions, or 'wudu', in preparation for the noon prayer, Dhuhr. Prayer five times a day is obligatory all year round, and in Ramadan there are additional prayers, such as the Tarawih in the evening. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
A man sits in the madrasa, reading the Quran. It is encouraged during the holy month to use your time to read and practise recitations of the Quran, which was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad during the month of Ramadan 1,408 years ago. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
A man sits in the madrasa, reading the Quran. It is encouraged during the holy month to use your time to read and practise recitations of the Quran, which was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad during the month of Ramadan 1,408 years ago. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
The newly built Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is Morocco’s largest mosque, and boasts the world’s tallest minaret. During Ramadan, hundreds of thousands of worshippers flock here for Tarawih prayers, and the mosque’s retractable roof is opened to welcome the stars. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
The newly built Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is Morocco’s largest mosque, and boasts the world’s tallest minaret. During Ramadan, hundreds of thousands of worshippers flock here for Tarawih prayers, and the mosque’s retractable roof is opened to welcome the stars. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
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The third prayer of the day, Asr, the afternoon prayer, brings iftar ever closer. Karima, a young PhD student, washes for prayer. She tells me she prays for the fortune of her friends and family, but most importantly, her football team, Real Madrid. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
The third prayer of the day, Asr, the afternoon prayer, brings iftar ever closer. Karima, a young PhD student, washes for prayer. She tells me she prays for the fortune of her friends and family, but most importantly, her football team, Real Madrid. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Nordin of the Sahara, wearing an Amazigh gandoura with a "free man of the desert" insignia, tells me that the virtues of kindness, gratitude and hospitality should be practised by Muslims all year, but God, knowing the imperfect nature of humans, gave us Ramadan to improve ourselves. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Nordin of the Sahara, wearing an Amazigh gandoura with a "free man of the desert" insignia, tells me that the virtues of kindness, gratitude and hospitality should be practised by Muslims all year, but God, knowing the imperfect nature of humans, gave us Ramadan to improve ourselves. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
As the sun falls over the horizon, the adhan erupts from the Spanish Mosque, calling for the Maghrib prayer. This signals the end of fasting hours, and after prayer, it is traditional for Muslims to break fast with dates and water, following the example of the Prophet Muhammad. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
As the sun falls over the horizon, the adhan erupts from the Spanish Mosque, calling for the Maghrib prayer. This signals the end of fasting hours, and after prayer, it is traditional for Muslims to break fast with dates and water, following the example of the Prophet Muhammad. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Up the steep staircases of Chefchaouen’s medina, a young boy rushes to make it home in time for iftar, the evening meal where Muslims break their fast. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Up the steep staircases of Chefchaouen’s medina, a young boy rushes to make it home in time for iftar, the evening meal where Muslims break their fast. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Turning off their engines and refusing tourists, these taxi drivers invited me to join them for iftar on the roadside. From the boot of one car, a feast of sweets, soup, vegetables and piping hot mint tea was served. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Turning off their engines and refusing tourists, these taxi drivers invited me to join them for iftar on the roadside. From the boot of one car, a feast of sweets, soup, vegetables and piping hot mint tea was served. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Ramadan would not be complete without traditional hand-made sweets. Prepared fresh in the market of Marrakech, a Moroccan specialty during the holy month is shubakiya, made with sesame, orange blossom and plenty of sugar. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
Ramadan would not be complete without traditional hand-made sweets. Prepared fresh in the market of Marrakech, a Moroccan specialty during the holy month is shubakiya, made with sesame, orange blossom and plenty of sugar. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
In Chefchaouen, a baker, is busy selling sweets. He tells me Islam is about unity and points to his paper sign, which reads: 'There is no difference between each other, we are the same blood. Like black, like white, we are human. One life, live it.' [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
In Chefchaouen, a baker, is busy selling sweets. He tells me Islam is about unity and points to his paper sign, which reads: 'There is no difference between each other, we are the same blood. Like black, like white, we are human. One life, live it.' [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
With the moon showing the holy month is three quarters complete, the Koutoubia Mosque beneath is overflowing at Isha'a, the night prayer. Believers recite one thirtieth of the Quran every night during Tarawih, so that a full recitation will be complete by the end of the month. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]
With the moon showing the holy month is three quarters complete, the Koutoubia Mosque beneath is overflowing at Isha'a, the night prayer. Believers recite one thirtieth of the Quran every night during Tarawih, so that a full recitation will be complete by the end of the month. [Venetia Menzies/Al Jazeera]

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