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Gallery|Arts and Culture

Inside Romania’s Happy Cemetery

Where people are remembered with humour and happy goodbyes.

The merry cemetery
Sapanta is a village in northern Romania with little over 3,000 inhabitants. It lies close to the border with Ukraine and some 580km from the capital Bucharest. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]

By Sorin Furcoi

Published On 23 Mar 201623 Mar 2016

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Sapanta, Romania – Hidden in a small valley of Transylvania’s Maramures County, the cemetery in the village of Sapanta has become a landmark in Northern Romania and an important tourist attraction.

Established in the 1930s by Stan Ioan Patras, a local poet, sculptor and painter, the cemetery is not like any other in the world. Patras was a talented artist and locals hired him to carve the oakwood crosses for the graves of loved ones, which he also painted in bright colours on a deep blue background.

At some point he started adding memorable and humorous accounts and limericks from the lives of the deceased on the crosses, or a depiction of the manner in which they had died.

Over a period of 40 years, Patras finished hundreds of such works of art at the “happy cemetery”, which helps the community to mourn their dead by celebrating their lives.

Patras died in 1977, but not before he had a chance to carve his own grave-cross with a poem, roughly translated as:

Since I was a small boy,
People called me Stan Ion Patras.
Hear me! O good people,
I wouldn’t tell you a lie.
As long as I lived, I wished harm upon no one.
I wished only good,
as much as I could, upon everyone.
Oh this poor old world of mine,
It’s been a tough one.

Today, there are more than 800 such crosses in the Sapanta cemetery, with Patras’ most talented apprentice, Dumitru Pop Tincu, ensuring the tradition is carried on. 

the merry cemetery
The village has become one of the most important landmarks of Maramures County since the 1970s, when a French journalist visited the village and wrote about the work of Stan Ioan Patras. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
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the merry cemetery
Patras started working on the colourful crosses in the mid 1930s. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
the merry cemetery
Herodotus, the Greek historian, said the Dacians, who lived in what is now Romania, were fearless in battle and went laughing to their graves because they believed they were going to meet Zalmoxis, their supreme god. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
the merry cemetery
Ethnologists say Sapanta's happy cemetery is probably a reflection of the attitude to death that came from the time of the Dacians, early inhabitants of Romania, and have passed into folklore. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
the merry cemetery
The happy cemetery is a UNESCO heritage site and one of the most visited places of its kind. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
the merry cemetery
Traditional geometric designs and flower motifs in vibrant colours are used to adorn the crosses. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
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the merry cemetery
Today, there are more than 800 such works of art in the cemetery. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
the merry cemetery
The images depict the death of the person or other scenes from their lives, together with short poems. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
the merry cemetery
The cross of the mother-in-law reads: 'Under this heavy cross lies my poor mother-in-law. If she had lived three more days I would be the one in the grave, and she'd be reading. You, who here are passing by, not to wake her up please try, because if she were to come back she'd nag me more until I'd die. I will surely behave my best so that in the grave she stays. Stay put, dear mother in-law!' [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
The merry cemetery
Having carved his own cross, the creator of Sapanta's Happy Cemetery died in 1977. [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]


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