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A deserted sanctuary near Mosul’s frontlines

Saint Hormizd Monastery overlooks the Ninevah plains, where Iraqi forces are locked in battle with ISIL.

Al-Qosh was once the capital of the Assyrian Empire. It is also one of the closest towns in the Ninevah plains to the front lines with ISIL. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Al-Qosh was once the capital of the Assyrian Empire. It is also one of the closest towns in the Ninevah plains to the front lines with ISIL. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
By 
Layth Mushtaq
12 Nov 2016
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The sound of artillery can be easily heard from the mountaintop of al-Qosh.

Although the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) group was pushed back from nearby villages, the few people remaining in Saint Hormizd Monastery and the town itself are still living in a state of tension. The town, about 50km north of Mosul, is now largely deserted.

The monastery, considered to be one of the oldest still standing in Ninevah province, is virtually abandoned, with no visitors and no masses. None of the archbishops live here any more, having fled alongside most of the town’s residents when ISIL, also known as ISIS, took control of large parts of Ninevah.

The monastery overlooks the Ninevah plains, and battles between the Kurdish Peshmerga and Iraqi forces against ISIL can be watched from the top.

“I just pray every day that all of this will end very soon. We have been living in fear of ISIL for more than two years now,” said Matta Rammo, 49, one of two guards who remains at the monastery.

Ghazwan Elias, 36, who heads a local community organisation for the less fortunate, described the situation as “catastrophic”.

“All my people have left the town. I refuse to leave,” he told Al Jazeera. “I want my children to be raised here, in my country, here in Iraq.”

Residents of al-Qosh, mainly Christians, fled the town after ISIL took control of Mosul in June 2014. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Residents of al-Qosh, mainly Christians, fled the town after ISIL took control of Mosul in June 2014. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
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Monks and priests left Saint Hormizd  Monastery when ISIL took control of large areas of Ninevah. The monastery has been tended by only two guards for the past two years. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Monks and priests left Saint Hormizd  Monastery when ISIL took control of large areas of Ninevah. The monastery has been tended by only two guards for the past two years. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Built on top of a chain of caves, the monastery was a place of worship for monks during the early years of Christianity in Iraq. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Built on top of a chain of caves, the monastery was a place of worship for monks during the early years of Christianity in Iraq. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Many Christians from Ninevah have left Iraq in recent years for the United States, Canada and Europe. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Many Christians from Ninevah have left Iraq in recent years for the United States, Canada and Europe. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Although ISIL has never controlled al-Qosh, most of its population fled to Erbil in northern Iraq, fearing a sudden invasion or attack by ISIL. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Although ISIL has never controlled al-Qosh, most of its population fled to Erbil in northern Iraq, fearing a sudden invasion or attack by ISIL. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Saint Hormizd Monastery has been virtually abandoned for more than two years, yet the main facilities are still standing. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Saint Hormizd Monastery has been virtually abandoned for more than two years, yet the main facilities are still standing. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
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Saint Hormizd Monastery is also a resting place for some Assyrian fighters. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Saint Hormizd Monastery is also a resting place for some Assyrian fighters. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Amid persecution during the Assyrian Empire, some Christian monks used the natural caves in the mountains of al-Qosh as a hiding place. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Amid persecution during the Assyrian Empire, some Christian monks used the natural caves in the mountains of al-Qosh as a hiding place. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Al-Qosh has been conquered many times throughout its history. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Al-Qosh has been conquered many times throughout its history. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Ghazwan Elias, who has refused to leave the town, says: 'If we all leave, who will tell the story of our ancestors to the generations to come?' [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Ghazwan Elias, who has refused to leave the town, says: 'If we all leave, who will tell the story of our ancestors to the generations to come?' [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Elias says that, with the current situation in al-Qosh, his local community organisation has stopped its activities 'because only a few families are still living in the town'. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Elias says that, with the current situation in al-Qosh, his local community organisation has stopped its activities 'because only a few families are still living in the town'. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Father Gabriel Dodftehm described the monastery as one of the holiest places for Iraqi Christians. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
Father Gabriel Dodftehm described the monastery as one of the holiest places for Iraqi Christians. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
The monastery is the resting place of nine archbishops who preached and lived in Iraq. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]
The monastery is the resting place of nine archbishops who preached and lived in Iraq. [Layth Mushtaq/Al Jazeera]

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